Bouldering & Indoor Climbing

A lot of people I’ve known that get into rock climbing have this dream to one day build a rock climbing wall. It would be nice to have a rock wall in your back yard so you didn’t have to travel so far, but my recommendation actually is to not build one. Here’s why:

Cost

Most people think that the cost of building a rock wall would be more economic than visiting a gym regularly. The truth is that it’s not. The cost of wood materials alone for a bouldering wall about 10′ high by 15′ wide would run around $350, and with rock holds included you can easily reach $800. That’s assuming you already have the tools and skill to build it. If you are paying someone to build it, you’d be looking at at least double that. You can get a membership at a gym for a whole year for less than that.

Maintenance

You can’t just build a rock climbing wall and let it sit for ever. You have to maintain it. That means cleaning holds and setting new routes regularly. If you have nothing else to do like work or any other hobbies at all, then you may have time for this. Otherwise it usually not worth trading your drive time to and from the gym with the time it takes to maintain the wall. The rock gyms already maintain there walls and set new routes all the time so that you don’t have to.

People

Another reason to go to a rock gym is the people. You can learn so much from the other climbers whether they are more experienced than you or not. You can’t get that kind of training at home by your self. And the benefits of that training are priceless.

So if you live 45 minutes from the nearest rock gym and would rather spend that time cleaning and maintaining your own wall, then you may consider building on, but I recommend in most cases that you use a rock climbing gym and not build a rock climbing wall.

Living in Houston is somewhat troublesome for a rock climber as there are actually no real rock formations in Houston. I talked about some really good rock climbing locations in texas in a previous post, but the problem with those locations is that they are hours away from Houston. So what are you to do if you are in Houston and need to climb? There are really two options:

Stone Moves

Stone Moves is hands down the best Houston climbing gym I’ve ever been to. I talked about why Stone Moves is a great gym in my post “Stone Moves” and about what makes a solid rock climbing gym in an earlier one. To re-cap, the people are great, and the routes are fun and have a good range of difficulty. Check out both posts for more info.

Buildering

Buildering is another name for urban climbing. There are a number of Houston climbing spots that offer good buildering routes, but my personal favorite is The Woodlands Mall. There are several small bridges around the River Walk and they offer some great roof climbing practice on the bottom side. Plus they’re over water so you will have a very cushioned fall. Apart from the bridges there are 2 or 3 concrete walls that support bridges and offer excellent finger pocket routes.

Another cool Houston climbing spot is on the wall of I45 just south of Rayford road at the turn-around. The wall is made up of octagonal panels about 6 feet across, and it goes on for about a quarter mile and makes an awesome traverse. Good stuff, but not a lot of lighting, so always take 3 or 4 friends to be on the safe side. As always follow my safety tips for outdoor rock climbing in my post “Rock Climbing Accidents” and be smart.

So just because you live in Houston, climbing is not impossible to find. Just keep your eye out and hit up Stone Moves regularly.

I have talked a bit about some conventional styles of climbing in my post “Bouldering Vs. Top Roping“. Now I’d like to discuss another for of climbing that is a little less conventional. It is called biuldering. Buildering is another name for urban climbing, and it is essentially the result of rock climbers being caged in the innercities and not having any real rock formations to scale. It can be fun, and it can be as good a workout as you’d get on a real rock, but it’s also more dangerous. I say this because of the added risk of vanalism. So here are some ways to enjoy buildering without getting hurt physically or legislatively.

Supports

When buildering, remember to only climb structures that support a load. These would be structures or part of a structure that was designed for the purpose of carrying the weight of the structure it is part of. These would be things like support collumns, rafters, joists, I-beams, C-beams and such.

Ornaments

Never ever climb something that is ornamental or decorative. If something is decorative, the most likely scenario is that it was designed for the purpose of asthetic pleasantness and not to support anything. If you were to climb on it, there is a good chance you’d break it. And unfortunately when you break something you’re climbing it is usually an unpredicted and painful fall.  Plus this would hurt your wallet as well if you were to be caught. The other possibility is that it is designed to support a load, but since it is something decorative, you’d be vandalizing it by marking it up with chalk and rubber from your shoes. This option would not do to well with your pocket book either.

Safety

As mentioned before in my post “Climbing Partner” always climb with someone else, including when buildering. also be sure to have multiple crash pads to create a good coverage for your fall.

Finally, be smart. Don’t try any moves you can’t stick because concrete is a lot harder than dirt or gravel, and climbing shoes don’t have any ankle support. You can really hurt yourself if you try things that are above your level.

I’ve written about a solid rock climbing gym in Houston that I frequently climb at. The name of the gym is Stone Moves and it truly is the best rock climbing gym in Houston. It fits all the criteria i spoke about in that post and goes beyond. I’ve been climbing there regularly since I started in 2003 and still think it’s the best.

Stone Moves

The owner, John is a super down to earth guy and a very experienced climber. He’s always willing to help people out if they get stuck on a problem, and just really easy to get along with. The rest of the staff is super nice as well and they all climb, so they can all help out if you need it.

They have a very wide variety of routes for both bouldering and top roping that range from very beginner level to very challenging. The routes are very well designed to simulate real formations and they’re always a lot of fun.

They host a climbing class where they give lessons on strength training and rock climbing techniques.
Their is a climbing team and they host frequent competitions to further challenge yourself. They also have deals for climbing parties which are great for kids, and Wednesday nights you get 2 climbing passes for the price of one.

Rates

Bouldering pass is $8

Day pass is $12

Shoe rental $3

Harness rental $2

Chalk bag rental $2

Hours

North Gym on 1FM 1960 @ Cutten is open:

3-10PM weekdays

10-10PM Saturdays

12-8PM Sunday

While there are no rocks in Houston, there are plenty of rock climbing locations in Texas. I thought I’d take a little time to discuss a few of them.

Hueco Tanks

Hueco Tanks is located 32 miles north-east from El Paso and is home to some of the best bouldering problems it all Texas. As one of Texas’ most well known rock climbing locations, during the climbing season that stretches from October through March of every yearthere are visitors from all over Europe, Asia and even Australia.  It is only $7 per day for camping and showering, but 2/3 of the park require you have a guide with you in order to access.

McKinney Falls

McKinney Falls is right outside of Austin Tx and only about 3 hours from Houston. There are some really good bouldering sites there, and entrance to the park is free. I like to go there in the winter when it gets nice and cold. We usually camp out Friday night and climb all day Saturday. Once though we waited too long and when we got there it was far too cold to climb, so we went to Austin Rock Gym North (awesome gym).

Reimer’s Ranch

It’s just west of Austin Tx and has some great top roping problems ranging all the way from 5:6 to 5:14. Some bouldering, but better for top roping. It’s $8 per car so pack light.

There are many more rock climbing locations in Texas but I haven’t visited them all. At least not for climbing. I’ll follow up as I get better acquainted with them.

Rock climbing accidents ar usually caused by carelessness and inexperience. In my earlier post I talked about the importance of having a climbing partner and why it is not safe to climb alone. There is no route that is worth your health or you life, and gravity definitely deserves your respect. It has been here a lot longer that you and I. So always climb with a partner. On that note I’d like to discuss how to climb safely inside and outside.

Inside

Just because you have 14″ of padding under you does not mean you are invulnerable. I personally have seen more rock climbing accidents inside a gym than I have outside. How is that? It’s simple. CARELESSNESS! Don’t forsake what you know about rock climbing safety just because you feel safer inside a climbing gym. When top roping, always use the proper safety ropes and harness and have a clear understanding of belaying procedures and language. When bouldering, always use a bouldering crash pad and make sure you have a partner to spot you.

Outside

When rock climbing outside, all should understand that while you can get hurt in a gym if you fall, falling outside raises your chances a good deal. So be smart. You can challenge yourself to new levels and even try problems you know are too difficult for you to handle while in the climbing gym, but leave that in the gym. When you’re outside climbing on real rock and over top of hard ground, climb routes within your level of experience. Also real rock is not maintained the way a rock gym is, and after many many years rock hold can break off. So never ever ever climb high without rope and harness. And even when not climbing high make sure to use crash pads. Notice I said, “crash pads” plural. If you’re climbing outside don’t leave anything to chance. To prevent rock climbing accidents you and each of your climbing partners should have a crash pad with them and lay them out like one huge padded floor. Remember it’s better safe than sorry and all of you should have a crash pad anyway.

Any parent reading this has probably already come to the conclusion that kids are naturally good climbers. I know several rock climbing kids that are between 5 and 10 years old and have been in a climbing gym since they were practically babies. No doubt if they stick with it they will be incredibly strong climbers when they grow up. Rock climbing is one of the best workouts anyone could ask for and it also stimulates the mind and improves hand-eye coordination. I strongly believe that rock climbing kids get many benefits from the sport, and so do their parents.

Benefits To Kids

By rock climbing, kids develop both physical and mental skills develop that helps them in other aspects of life. Using their own body weight to exercise builds a balanced muscle structure. Since they use a lot of energy and burn a lot of calories rock climbing, kids will maintain a very healthy metabolism which prevents obesity. Also solving different problems on the rocks teaches kids to look ahead, way consequences, and plan their moves accordingly. Rock climbing develops physical balance that demands good posture.

Benefits To Parents

Kids are naturally interested in climbing and are sure to enjoy it. Climbing at an early age will develop that interest and give them a wholesome activity that they can do all through the teenage years and for the rest of their lives. This can keep them out of trouble later since they will always think rock climbing is cool. And climbing is not expensive if you don’t want it to be. I’ve discussed the style of climbing called bouldering in my previous posts. This style requires shoes and chalk. That’s it. Both of which you can rent at a climbing gym. And last but not least parents get the peace of mind knowing that their child is active and healthy rather than playing video games on their couch.

There are only a handful of items I would consider a must-have for rock climbing. Since the sport is largely based on strength relative to your own body weight, it really isn’t necessary to lift weights or buy a lot of work out equipment.

One thing I do consider a must-have is a climbing fingerboard. They are relatively cheap compared to a weight set or an exercise machine at only about $45 and the physical and technical benefits are priceless. As you may already know from your experience climbing, the only way to actually get better at rock climbing is to actually rock climb. The rest of the body weight exercises and physical training will help keep you strong but where they are all severely lacking is in their ability to both train and strengthen you tendons. A climbing fingerboard will do both of these things and increase your physical strength and condition at the same time.

As you can see in the image above, a climbing fingerboard is made of synthetic rock material similar to rock climbing holds found in rock gyms and has almost every style and size rock hold imaginable. Since you are all busy people and can’t make it to the rock gym every single day of your lives but still want to get super strong, this is the perfect solution. It’s only about 30 lbs which makes it super easy to install and you can use it for just 10 minutes a day to increase tendon strength and condition your core for climbing on real rocks.

One thing to consider when buying climbing shoes is their application. Climbing in a rock gym is much less abrasive than climbing on real rocks, so if you climb outside frequently then you will need a more durable shoe which means more money. However, if you climb primarily in a rock gym then you really should go with some cheap climbing shoes.

Cheap Climbing Shoes

My first pair of climbing shoes were Madrock Flash shoes. I bought them because I had just started climbing an knew that most of my time would be spent in the gym and I didn’t have a lot of money to blow. They cost only $75 and lasted me over three years. In fact the only reason I got rd of them was because I wanted a more aggressive shoe to fit better with my current climbing level. That’s barely $20 per year.

I liked the shoes for several reasons. They were comfortable and convenient with velcro in stead of laces, they were versatile in that they were useful for both bouldering and top roping, and they preformed very well on the rocks. They had a lot of stick in the rubber and plenty of heel and toe curve.

The only thing I didn’t like about the shoes is that they are not aggressive enough for my taste. I would definitely recommend these cheap climbing shoes as a starter pair, and once you’ve grown a little and know where your climbing will be focused, you should move on and spend some money on a pair that is right for you.

Just as with any sport or exercise, it’s tough to be regular at something by your self unless you’re extremely self motivated. Therefore I deem it a necessity to have a climbing partner who pushes your limits and you theirs. Having a climbing partner helps keep you climbing even when you’re tired from work or school and motivates you to keep getting stronger. Another thing a climbing parter is good for is safety. You should really really always use a spotter whenever you boulder and you must use a belay partner if you top rope. No matter what is under you, no matter how short or easy the climb is, it is definitely not worth your life. You don’t have to fall from 50 feet up to die, and I’ve seen people that were severely injured only a few feet off the ground. And it is all because they said, “I got it. No problem”. There is a proverb that says, “Pride is before a crash”. Being over confident can lead to severe injury or even death. So never climb without a climbing partner.

If you are new to climbing I recommend choosing a climbing partner that is as new as you. If your partner is on your same skill level then they will push and motivate you to progress. If they are more experienced than you, you may actually get discouraged. And if they are less experienced or climbing on a lower level than you, then they may hold you back from your potential.

There are a handful of really solid rock climbing gyms, But there are many out there that just aren’t that great. I’d like to talk about what makes a good rock climbing gym and hopefully help you decide which to use.

People

The owners and employees of the gym have got to be really devoted not just to rock climbing, but also to helping others improve. I love the gym i go to because the owner is always around helping people out and giving advice, and also just getting to know people. It’s a lot easier climb regularly if there is a lot of support from the people you climb with. And the type of person running the gym really makes a difference in the type of people that climb there. The owner at the rock gym I use is super down to earth and therefore most of the regulars there are too. It makes for a great environment that is both fun and supportive.

It also takes an experience climber to run a really solid rock climbing gym. You should be able to ask the owner of a gym any questions you have about climbing, injuries, safety, cool climbs in the area, and they should know all this because of there experience. If you go to a rock gym that’s part of a chain then it’s really hard to get the kind of support you get from a more personal gym.

Climbs

The climbing routes/problems in a good gym will have a good range in difficulty. Beginners and veterans alike should be able to enjoy there time there. And the wide range allows you to continue to grow in your strength and technique. Obviously not all gyms can cater strongly to both top roping and bouldering so you should use a rock gym that focuses on the one you enjoy most. I go to a gym that is actually very diverse and has some great top roping as well as bouldering. If your rock gym does not have enough difficulty range then you will eventually put a cap on your progress, so you need to find one that does. Wide range in skill level is a must for a solid rock climbing gym.

As you already know if you’ve ever actually been climbing at a real rock gym or at a real climbing site, there is a huge difference between rock climbing and the portable rock climbing walls you may have seen in your local mall. I get tired sometimes of telling people about my favorite sport and them saying, “Oh I have been rock climbing. I made it all the way to the top.” So I’ll usually invite them to the rock gym I go to and show them what it really means to rock climb. I don’t like to boast or show off, but I don’t like that these commercial giants minimize the sport. Even well known rock gyms don’t do the sport justice. There is a big rock gym in Houston that used to have like 5 locations. When the gym I go to opened, they shut down 2 of them, and when my gym opened a second location, they shut down 2 more. That’s why I climb there. So don’t waste your time or money on one of those portable rock climbing walls when you can experience a really great work out and simultaneously enjoy the greatest sport ever.

As you may know from my About page, I have focused most of my energy on the sport of bouldering. This is a great entry to the world of rock climbing since you don’t need a lot of climbing gear (shoes, chalk bag, and crash pad). Another reason I am more into bouldering is because I live in texas where there ae some of the best bouldering sites in the country. Hueco tanks is only about 9 hours away and has some of the hardest bouldering problems in the country, and even closer are McKinney Falls and Reimer’s Ranch just near Austin about 3 hours from me. But it’s important to explore top roping as well to balance out your technique and to gain endurance. Let me just describe in short the differences between the two:

Bouldering

bouldering

Bouldering is a gymnastic style of climbing that is very much strengthoriented and usually consists of relatively short climbs. I’ve personally climbed boulder problems only 8 feet high that were very difficult. The climber does not wear a harness, rope or use any equipment other than climbing shoes, a chalk bag, and a bouldering crash pad. Rather than someone to belay, a climber would have a spotter.

Top Roping

Top roping is generally more endurance based than bouldering as the climbs are usually a lot longer. They also go a lot higher. The climber wears a harness and has a friend belay them with a climbing rope for safety.

Different rock climbing ratings are used for different styles of climbing systems. V’s and 5’s.

Both systems are exponential scales with increasing increments of difficulty. There are several variables that define the difficulty of the route:

Incline- 0 degree incline is straight up. 90 degrees would be like climbing the roof of a cave with your back to the ground. The higher the incline, the less support you get from your feet and therefore is more difficult.

Rocks- The size, type, and position of the holds are also considered in rock climbing ratings. The smaller the rock holds are, the less you have to grip. Slopers, pinches, and crimps are harder to stick than jugs. Long dynamic moves require more energy than short static moves.

Route length- The longer the route the more energy you use.

All these things considered are what makes up the rock climbing rating.

Bouldering

Bouldering uses a rock climbing ratings system that is measured in V’s. Routes range from V-0 through V16. It is an exponential scale so the increments of difficulty increase form level to level. A V-0 is a very beginner level route with large jug holds and simple footing usually less than 0 degrees inclined. A V-16 would be a pretty long route with some hardcore incline and super complex holds. I’ve embedded a video of Chris Sharma climbing Dreamcatcher which is a V-16 just to give an idea.

Top Roping/High Climbing

Top roping uses a rating scale that uses 5’s. Routes range from 5-0 to a 5-14. A 5-0 is even more simple than a V-0 but is usually a bit longer and a few more moves. A 5-14 is similar to a V-16 but usually with less difficult moves but more of them.

Let me start by saying that clothing does not make you a better climber. It doesn’t make you stronger, and it does not improve your technique. It can however help in a few ways. These little things are hardly noticeable to a new climber so again I’d say to you new guys/girls, don’t go spend a bunch of money on rock climbing clothing until you’ve been at it a while. You’ll really be just wasting your money. Once you’ve climbed for a few months then it definitely something to consider.

Number 1 thing about rock climbing clothing is the pants. You’ve got to choose something that is comfortable and that allows you to move freely. Trust me when I say that you do not want to either a) miss a move 20 feet off the ground because your pants are too long or too tight, or b) split your pants while sticking the move so you give everyone a show they aren’t interested in. So how do you remedy this?The 2 main problems with pants are length and fit. If you where regular pants that hit your ankles when you walk, then the cuffs can and will get caught on your shoes when you’re on the wall in different positions. And if theay are tight then they restrict needed mobility and flexibility. I reccomend shorts because they are not hot or restrictive and they keep your feet free for wide and fast moves. I realize however that there are some places and times that shorts are not appropriate, like mid December at a waterfall. Then in those cases I recommend pants that hit just above the ankle when you walk almost like highwater pants so that they don’t catch on your feet and that are loose on the legs and have a little bit of stretch. Remember that you’re really not going for fashion here but rather functionality.

As for the rest of the rock climbing clothing, I can really only speak to the guys. I reccomend just a plain white cotton t-shirt. You don’t have to get too fancy with it.

The first in a series explaining important points of interest when choosing and using rock gear. This time we’ll look at shoes.

When it comes to climbing gear, shoes are the staple. They are like the rice of the climbing world. It is important that you choose the right climbing shoes for your style so obviously you’ll need to climb for a while before you know what that is.

New Climbers

You don’t need to spend a lot of money on shoes to begin with. As I previously mentioned, if you are new to the game you probably don’t even know what style of climbing is your cup of tea. Therefore I reccomend that you get a cheap pair of shoes to start with. I spent $75 on my first pair of MadRock shoes and they lasted over 3.5 years. Plus, more expensive shoes usually have a bunch of extras that you don’t need. The point is that you probably won’t even get your money’s worth out of expensive shoes unless you already know what your doing. It’s like a guy who works in an office 50 hours a week buying a $35k 4WD truck when all he needs is a $15k Corrolla.

Experienced Climbers

For you more experienced ones, money shouldn’t be as much of a concern. If you already know you’re going to stick with the sport then it won’t hurt to spend a little more on some good gear. If you buy nothing but cheap crap climbing gear, shoes should be the exception to the rule. Like I said before, they are a staple. Super important to your climbing progress.

The first step is to identify your style of climbing. There are several things to consider when looking at new shoes. If you’re more into bouldering, then you’re going to want a more agressive shoe for some harder moves and sticky soles. If you’re into high climbing or top roping, you need something that will last longer since you’re on the wall for more time. Consider the following shoe biology for your next purchase:

Toe-The toe is by far the most defining part of a shoe. A downward curve in the shoe’s toe lends its self to agressiveness. It is great for hardcore stick and lunge moves where you don’t have much time or friction. A straight toe indicates that the shoe is more for comfort and longevity great for long high climbs but hindering in a bouldering challenge.

Sole-The rubber in the sole of an agressive shoe sticks better than a top roping shoe and therefore helps when bouldering. But with more friction comes more wear and soon those soles will be torn through if you take them up a mountain.

Heel-The heel is one of those extras I mentioned earlier. An agressive heel is great for bouldering, but can seriously sacrifice comfort. On a long climb comfort is usually preferable to heel power.

The last thing to look for in a shoe is the convenience. To be blunt, lace-ups suck. anyone who says different as only been climbing for a couple weeks. Slip-ons in my opinion are great but actually I have yet to find a comfortable pair. In my mind, velcro is usually the best way to go. You get the security without the discomfort.

Well, I hope this helps you in your search, and if you have any questions about climbing gear, shoes or otherwise, just post a comment and I’ll do my best to answer.

To get started I’d like to take a minute to explain some of the rock climbing terminology that I’ll be using in the rest of my posts. The rock climbing terminology is a perpetually growing language, but it helps at least to have a general idea of what is already in use.

General

Route- A series of moves making a path from the bottom of a rock mass to the top.

Problem- Generally used to describe a climbing rout as a whole. Termed as such because of the physical puzzle represented by each rout.

Flash- complete a problem the first time you try it.

Send- Complete a climbing problem.

On sight- Complete a problem on the first try without ever having seen the route before.

Stick- To complete a move from hold to hold.

Down climb- To climb back down a route from the top to the bottom.

Traverse- To move horizontally across a rock mass.

Holds

Finger pocket-A place on a hold that you can put at least one finger in.

Jug-A large hold that you can fit most or all of your fingers into.

Jib-A very small hold with no pocket that may only stand up to a half inch from the rock. Mainly used as foot holds.

Sloper-A rock that has flat rounded edges and no pockets. They require an open hand grip which uses the long tendons in the forearm. Usually used for balance rather that progression.

Crimp-A small rock that requires a closed finger grip utilizing the short tendons in the wrist and forearm.

Pinch-Small or large rock that has no lip or pocket and requires you to pinch your thumb toward your fingers for support.

Moves

Match-Place both hands on the same rock simultaneusly.

Hang-Remain on a rock with your support arm straight and unflexed.

Lock off-Hang from rock with arm bent at either 90 deg or 45 deg.

Dyno-Lunge from one rock to another leaving the wall completely before reaching the next hold.

Static-Reach another hold without leaving the one you were on.

Flag-Leave one foot free from the wall to counter-balance another move.

Heel-Place the heel of your shoe on a rock hold.

Stub/Drag-Drag one foot across wall to maintain balance during a move.

Campass- Move from rock to rock without using your feet.

Gear

Crash pad-Large pad that is placed under a climber in case of a fall.

Chalk bag-Bag that hangs from the waist while climbing to keep hands dry.

I will be periodically updating the list of rock climbing terminology so that it will be current. If there are any questions about terms not in this list please leave a comment and I’ll add it.